Sweet blankets...check the garters at the knee and ankle...common in 18th cent descriptions
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Monday, August 30, 2010
Buffalo tugs...the duct tape of the hunters camp
tools of the trade...trade Knife and a section of buffalo hide
the french scalper folks..It slices, it dices it cuts Buffalo hides into tugs
Section of tug cut from hide
close up....the twist seems to give it some strength
So I decided that one of the items I needed to carry as a hunter was some buffalo tugs. Buffalo tugs are “ropes” cut out of green buffalo hides that seem to be a common field item used by market hunters/natives in the 18th century. They were used to carry gear or to make impromptu pack bags to haul meat back to stations. While these items aren’t made to last they would be a common item Hunters of the period would have made/used so I decided it was something I needed to try for myself.
I picked up a green hide from a local Buffalo ranch and made sure to go over the hide to make sure it was fleshed and dried to my satisfaction. I know ones done by a hunter may have been totally green but I wanted to be able to use these tugs/bags for a few demos. I’ve found that a dressed untanned hide can last at least a season. I then halved the hide. The lower half I cut into quarters to have smaller pieces to work with.
I took a quarter section and began to cut a inch wide tug out of the hide in a spiral. From this section I was able to cut out 30 feet of tug. I then stretched the tug out and used my tomahawk handle to twist the tug on itself. This is a technique I have used in making natural cordage and felt it could help the strength of the tug. And bam I now had 30 feet of Buffalo tug just about the most PC rope for an ohio country camp you could find..
I cut out another quarters worth of tug and twisted it but this was for more then rope. I then took a section of the hide about 24 inches wide 40 inches deep and folded it on itself (hair out) and using my knife as an awl punched holes on each side of the hide and laced it up with the tug. This pack matched up to the descriptions found in the draper/shane interviews on how hunters packed meat back to camps. I found that after a summer of hauling gear/meat in this pack with a tumpline (hoppus) it’s still in pretty good shape. Also I used my own tumpline but there was plenty of tug left over to make an impromptu tumpline out of this rig.
I picked up a green hide from a local Buffalo ranch and made sure to go over the hide to make sure it was fleshed and dried to my satisfaction. I know ones done by a hunter may have been totally green but I wanted to be able to use these tugs/bags for a few demos. I’ve found that a dressed untanned hide can last at least a season. I then halved the hide. The lower half I cut into quarters to have smaller pieces to work with.
I took a quarter section and began to cut a inch wide tug out of the hide in a spiral. From this section I was able to cut out 30 feet of tug. I then stretched the tug out and used my tomahawk handle to twist the tug on itself. This is a technique I have used in making natural cordage and felt it could help the strength of the tug. And bam I now had 30 feet of Buffalo tug just about the most PC rope for an ohio country camp you could find..
I cut out another quarters worth of tug and twisted it but this was for more then rope. I then took a section of the hide about 24 inches wide 40 inches deep and folded it on itself (hair out) and using my knife as an awl punched holes on each side of the hide and laced it up with the tug. This pack matched up to the descriptions found in the draper/shane interviews on how hunters packed meat back to camps. I found that after a summer of hauling gear/meat in this pack with a tumpline (hoppus) it’s still in pretty good shape. Also I used my own tumpline but there was plenty of tug left over to make an impromptu tumpline out of this rig.
As far as shelf life of a tug....I made some in early July and used them to haul stuff/pack gear all summer long and they still are holding up pretty well and This was with Almost daily use at the Historic site I was working at. To store them for a long period of time I simply make sure they are dry before I store them and pack them in a garbage bag in my attic.
On a side note I did find a few images of what may be buffalo tugs in use as powder horn straps and mentioned as being used to tie on a matchcoat. I’ll post those and a pic of the buffalo pack later today when I dig them back up. So many files of stuff so little time.
Friday, August 27, 2010
looking at old stuff
SO today I got some kewl stuff in the mail (you'd be amazed at the places you can make deals for old stuff lol) I picked up a nice shirt buckle, oval striker, awl, thimble, arrowhead and some tinkle cones. SO i figured I'd share them here. The one thing that you cant get from the pix is the thinness of the items. the striker is hella thin. In fact I haven't seen any repros made to this thickness (all too chunky)
I've also posted some pix of the knives I own just for ppl to get ideas from. I passed the largest one off to Ken Gahagan to repro for me. I was able to examine a few repro scalpers by Rich Worthington at the cla show so hopefully I'll be able to review some of them in the near future. I also ordered the same knife from Ken Hamilton, Joseph Privott and rick Guthrie so as soon as I have all three I'll post some info on them. enjoy the old stuff
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
South Union Mills....stockings review
SO I'm trying to post as much as possible and still keep the info usefull. SO here is something that most of us can use. Anyone that walks more then from the car to the event knows how horrible Bad stockings can be. they eat your feet up, Farb your gear up and well just plain suck. Well last summer I ordered a skillet from CHris Utely (the skillet rocks BTW ) and he thru in a pair of his STockings for me to try out. I guess he heard how I can break down 18th century gear like no one else (i think it's my basic 18th century diet of deer meat and beer but anyway...)
I got the stockings right before the "phillip's Massacre" tactical I hosted so I was able to get about a week in the field out of the stockings right off the bat. The held up great and didnt eat my feet like some knit stockings I had owned. THe stockings were a little on the thick side But they held up. In all honesty they acted as a type of Stocking legging so the thickness worked.
I wore the stockings the rest of the year heading out a number of time to my camp for 2-4 day camp out and they held up great. Thru the spring I wore the stockings every day at the historic site I worked at and even in mocs the stockings still haven't broken down.
Last weekend I was able to see some of Chris's newer stockings (thiner) and I have to say that they look great from an authenticity standpoint and they seem to be the same quality as the pair I've been wearing for over a year now. SO for anyone that does any "scouts" or walks more then 100 yards at an event Get these stockings! my only complaint is that my first pair havent worn out yet so I can turn them into STocking leggings with a pair of his thin weight stockings underneath.
http://www.southunionmills.com/18th-Century-Stockings.html
I got the stockings right before the "phillip's Massacre" tactical I hosted so I was able to get about a week in the field out of the stockings right off the bat. The held up great and didnt eat my feet like some knit stockings I had owned. THe stockings were a little on the thick side But they held up. In all honesty they acted as a type of Stocking legging so the thickness worked.
I wore the stockings the rest of the year heading out a number of time to my camp for 2-4 day camp out and they held up great. Thru the spring I wore the stockings every day at the historic site I worked at and even in mocs the stockings still haven't broken down.
Last weekend I was able to see some of Chris's newer stockings (thiner) and I have to say that they look great from an authenticity standpoint and they seem to be the same quality as the pair I've been wearing for over a year now. SO for anyone that does any "scouts" or walks more then 100 yards at an event Get these stockings! my only complaint is that my first pair havent worn out yet so I can turn them into STocking leggings with a pair of his thin weight stockings underneath.
http://www.southunionmills.com/18th-Century-Stockings.html
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
"All One Devil part 2" more stuff to look at
"All one Devil"
Close up of SE garter you can see the bead turned at an angle showing it's woven onto the piece
SE garter (bottom) note odd shape beading.....that aint no thunderbrid
SE garter (bottom) note odd shape beading.....that aint no thunderbrid
THe hair garter GUY
Pistol Grip swept blade knife.....I need like 5 of those things
The High top mocs...rockin
Well folks I was really AMAZED at the number of people that I met at the CLA show in lexington that actuly read this. I was pretty sure it was only the usual cast of Misfits I run around with. As soon as I get the pics from the show I'll post some of the Set up myself, Travis Crowder and Mike Burke had. Now to further poke the golem so to speak I decided to post some research on SE natives . Before I start I want to thank DR. Scott, David hobbs, Wynne Eden, Rick Guthrie, Jason Melius, Jim Apple and Joseph Privott for their help in researching SE natives over the past however many years.
The involvement of South eastern Tribes such as the Cherokee, Catawba, Chickasaw and creek natives in the campaigns of the seven years war has long been overlooked by many. Their role as allies of the English is …. Many of the events at Forts from the Carolinas to Pennsylvania the only appropriate role for a Native reenactor would be that of one of the English Allied southern tribes. It is the focus of this article to help someone build up a basic kit of an English allied Southern native during the Seven years war. My main focus is that of the Cherokees as personally this was the route I chose to interpret.
Basic Kit
The basic clothing of the18th century native is rather simple. It generally consists of a basic European mans shirt, leggings, breechclout, moccasins and a matchcoat. Henry Timberlake commented on their dress in his journal:
“ They that can afford it wear a collar of wampum, which are beads cut out of clamshells, a silver breast plate, and bracelets on their arms and wrists of the same metal, a bit of cloth over their private parts, a shirt of the English make, a sort of cloth boots, and mockasons which are shoes of a make peculiar to the Americans, ornamented with porcupine quills; a large mantle or matchcoat thrown over all completes their dress at home; but when they go to war they leave their trinkets behind, and the mere necessaries serve them.”
SO as you can see the basic kit for the portrayal isn’t really that hard to get together at all. From what I’ve found the most common colors for legging/matchcoats/breechclouts are White, blue, green and red. A great place for colors available to war parties is the list of goods given by the English at different forts. For example at Fort Cumberland the colors /types of woolen goods for the native allies was listed as:
2 ps red stroud
1 half piece blue stroud
6 blue strouds
3 ps blue ½ thick
2 ps white ditto
2 pcs red ditto
33 pr blue Indians stockings
The most common types of shirts; listed in the gift/trade lists for southern natives are either plain white or checked shirts. These shirts seem to have been made like the standard European man’s shirt of the period. One detail of note is the fact that many of these shirts seemed to have been made without buttons. It was common for European men of the period to wear cufflinks or “shirt buttons” as they are listed in the trade ledgers among the native goods and found in native arch sites it seems natives adopted their use as well.
Leggings seem to be the typical Side seam leggings with the wide flap that was typical during the period. These leggings were often sold/given in premade forms. Over all the Typical “dress” of the SE native male wasn’t that different than that of the northern tribes in that well they were all getting the same stuff from euro sources.
The real difference comes about when you look at the details of the clothes. Types of beading on the woven items, Hair styles, tats, lack of quillwork (except on mocs) etc. SO those are some details I’ll hash out here over a few separate blogs. This is also useful for those portraying SE hunters, soldiers etc as you’re view of just what a “native” looked like would be pretty different than that of a person from New York.
WOVEN GOODS
When most folks look at SE weaving the first idea is often the large diamonds and chevrons you see in the 19th century images. There are some examples of the diamonds and chevrons from the late 18th century but in all honesty the look nothing like what most weavers I have seen at shows are making today and calling 18th cent SE (except for David Hobbs that man can weave like a mofo!!!) And before you think this is an ADD for my own weaving I’m the first to admit I can’t make the SE diamonds/chevron stuff. I really wish I could but then again all I end up making is black and red leg ties but I digress…
Looking at 18th century SE images the Oblique weave seems to be common or at least show up (hard to say common with the very few pieces of SE anything that survive) The main difference in the SE oblique woven pieces seems to be that the beads are actually woven onto the strands as opposed to being woven in on a separate thread. The other BIG difference is that the bead designs …well..Look nothing like the northern stuff. Squares, circles, curves are woven into the item. The shapes look very close to images you would find on Mound Builder pottery.
Another type of SE weaving is the bead twine technique I mentioned in a previous blog. This type of weave is used for making garters, bags, hair fobs and Belts. Since I’ve already covered this to a point I’m not going to comment too much. I also don’t want to step on a friends Toes and put too much out as there is a forthcoming article on this (Come on DR. Scott get it out there) This stuff does pop up in the North but like the oblique woven items the southern examples have the early Pottery motifs on them.
“In the winter season the woman gather buffalos hair, a sort of coarse brown curled wool: and having spun it as fine as they can and properly doubled it, they put small beads of different colors upon the yarn as they work it. The figures they work into those small webs are generally uniform, but sometimes they diversify them on both sides." -- James Adair
"They in a very friendly manner, tied plenty of bead garters round my neck, arms and legs and decorated me a la mode America" -- James Adair
"The women likewise make very pretty belts and collars of beads and wampum also belts and garters of worsted." -- Henry Timberlake
“The cloathing of their body is simple and frugal. Sometimes a ruffled shirt of fine linen,next to the skin, and a flap, which covers their lower parts…The leg is furnished with cloth boots; they reach from the ancle to the calf, and are ornamented with lace,beads,silver bells,&c.” Bartram pg 121
Here are some good sites to find so info/images on SE natives.
http://amohkali.southeasterntrading.com/
this is Wynne Eden’s site it’s full of info/images. Wynne is a great guy and very knowledgable about the creeks during the F&I period
Basic Kit
The basic clothing of the18th century native is rather simple. It generally consists of a basic European mans shirt, leggings, breechclout, moccasins and a matchcoat. Henry Timberlake commented on their dress in his journal:
“ They that can afford it wear a collar of wampum, which are beads cut out of clamshells, a silver breast plate, and bracelets on their arms and wrists of the same metal, a bit of cloth over their private parts, a shirt of the English make, a sort of cloth boots, and mockasons which are shoes of a make peculiar to the Americans, ornamented with porcupine quills; a large mantle or matchcoat thrown over all completes their dress at home; but when they go to war they leave their trinkets behind, and the mere necessaries serve them.”
SO as you can see the basic kit for the portrayal isn’t really that hard to get together at all. From what I’ve found the most common colors for legging/matchcoats/breechclouts are White, blue, green and red. A great place for colors available to war parties is the list of goods given by the English at different forts. For example at Fort Cumberland the colors /types of woolen goods for the native allies was listed as:
2 ps red stroud
1 half piece blue stroud
6 blue strouds
3 ps blue ½ thick
2 ps white ditto
2 pcs red ditto
33 pr blue Indians stockings
The most common types of shirts; listed in the gift/trade lists for southern natives are either plain white or checked shirts. These shirts seem to have been made like the standard European man’s shirt of the period. One detail of note is the fact that many of these shirts seemed to have been made without buttons. It was common for European men of the period to wear cufflinks or “shirt buttons” as they are listed in the trade ledgers among the native goods and found in native arch sites it seems natives adopted their use as well.
Leggings seem to be the typical Side seam leggings with the wide flap that was typical during the period. These leggings were often sold/given in premade forms. Over all the Typical “dress” of the SE native male wasn’t that different than that of the northern tribes in that well they were all getting the same stuff from euro sources.
The real difference comes about when you look at the details of the clothes. Types of beading on the woven items, Hair styles, tats, lack of quillwork (except on mocs) etc. SO those are some details I’ll hash out here over a few separate blogs. This is also useful for those portraying SE hunters, soldiers etc as you’re view of just what a “native” looked like would be pretty different than that of a person from New York.
WOVEN GOODS
When most folks look at SE weaving the first idea is often the large diamonds and chevrons you see in the 19th century images. There are some examples of the diamonds and chevrons from the late 18th century but in all honesty the look nothing like what most weavers I have seen at shows are making today and calling 18th cent SE (except for David Hobbs that man can weave like a mofo!!!) And before you think this is an ADD for my own weaving I’m the first to admit I can’t make the SE diamonds/chevron stuff. I really wish I could but then again all I end up making is black and red leg ties but I digress…
Looking at 18th century SE images the Oblique weave seems to be common or at least show up (hard to say common with the very few pieces of SE anything that survive) The main difference in the SE oblique woven pieces seems to be that the beads are actually woven onto the strands as opposed to being woven in on a separate thread. The other BIG difference is that the bead designs …well..Look nothing like the northern stuff. Squares, circles, curves are woven into the item. The shapes look very close to images you would find on Mound Builder pottery.
Another type of SE weaving is the bead twine technique I mentioned in a previous blog. This type of weave is used for making garters, bags, hair fobs and Belts. Since I’ve already covered this to a point I’m not going to comment too much. I also don’t want to step on a friends Toes and put too much out as there is a forthcoming article on this (Come on DR. Scott get it out there) This stuff does pop up in the North but like the oblique woven items the southern examples have the early Pottery motifs on them.
“In the winter season the woman gather buffalos hair, a sort of coarse brown curled wool: and having spun it as fine as they can and properly doubled it, they put small beads of different colors upon the yarn as they work it. The figures they work into those small webs are generally uniform, but sometimes they diversify them on both sides." -- James Adair
"They in a very friendly manner, tied plenty of bead garters round my neck, arms and legs and decorated me a la mode America" -- James Adair
"The women likewise make very pretty belts and collars of beads and wampum also belts and garters of worsted." -- Henry Timberlake
“The cloathing of their body is simple and frugal. Sometimes a ruffled shirt of fine linen,next to the skin, and a flap, which covers their lower parts…The leg is furnished with cloth boots; they reach from the ancle to the calf, and are ornamented with lace,beads,silver bells,&c.” Bartram pg 121
Here are some good sites to find so info/images on SE natives.
http://amohkali.southeasterntrading.com/
this is Wynne Eden’s site it’s full of info/images. Wynne is a great guy and very knowledgable about the creeks during the F&I period
Saturday, August 14, 2010
bead twining basics or you too can charge $900 for string and beads
I’ve been finger weaving since the late 1990’s (god I feel old now) but along with finger weaving I’ve been interested in just about all aspects of natïve weaving used during the 18th century be it the oblique weave, braiding or twining. One type of weaving that I have found really enjoyable is the Bead Twining method. This type of weave can be seen on a number of pieces collected in the south east during the 18th century as well as some items from the Northern part of the country. Items ranging from powder horn straps, hair garters, belts to garters still exist in collections being made using this technique.
Before I go on I need to clarify one debate about this type of weave.. You can do this type of weave without any loom. You simply use your fingers to twist the warp cords onto the proper weave. Another type can be done using a heddle loom and you can see the warp cord being passed up and down over the warp. One thing I have found is you can with practice do the same weave without a heddle. You simply use your fingers as the heddle and not twist the weft cords. If you get more into this type of weaving and look at original items you can see just what I’m talking about.
Back to the show…ok lets try a simple hair garter to start with. This garter is based off an example from a private collection as well as a piece attached to the “scalp hat” in Aberdeen ,Scotland. In Smith’s narrative this may be the “narrow beaded garter” he mentions being wrapped around a piece of his scalp lock. So to start you need: 6 pieces of 2 ply yarn about a foot long, a lot of white beads (6/0 to 8/0) and about a yard of linen thread attached to a narrow needle and a narrow dowel rod
Step 1. Attach your yarn to the dowel rod. You know all 6 pieces near the top of them and wrap them around the dowel rod.
Step 2 tie your linen thread to the dowel rod and put 2 beads on the thread. You then separate the 6 threads on your index finger (3 on the front 3 on the back) and pass the thread between these threads. You then give the first two threads a half twist, the second two a half twist and the last pair a half twist. This locks the 2 beads in between each set of threads.
Step 3 You pass the weft with two beads back thru the warp strands and twist each pair of warps over the weft. AND repeat!!! It’s that simple.
To finish off the garter I simply take the weft thread and pass it back and forth thru the last 2-3 rows of baeds and then cut the weft flush to the warps. i'll post some detailed pix later when i get my hands on a better camera
Before I go on I need to clarify one debate about this type of weave.. You can do this type of weave without any loom. You simply use your fingers to twist the warp cords onto the proper weave. Another type can be done using a heddle loom and you can see the warp cord being passed up and down over the warp. One thing I have found is you can with practice do the same weave without a heddle. You simply use your fingers as the heddle and not twist the weft cords. If you get more into this type of weaving and look at original items you can see just what I’m talking about.
Back to the show…ok lets try a simple hair garter to start with. This garter is based off an example from a private collection as well as a piece attached to the “scalp hat” in Aberdeen ,Scotland. In Smith’s narrative this may be the “narrow beaded garter” he mentions being wrapped around a piece of his scalp lock. So to start you need: 6 pieces of 2 ply yarn about a foot long, a lot of white beads (6/0 to 8/0) and about a yard of linen thread attached to a narrow needle and a narrow dowel rod
Step 1. Attach your yarn to the dowel rod. You know all 6 pieces near the top of them and wrap them around the dowel rod.
Step 2 tie your linen thread to the dowel rod and put 2 beads on the thread. You then separate the 6 threads on your index finger (3 on the front 3 on the back) and pass the thread between these threads. You then give the first two threads a half twist, the second two a half twist and the last pair a half twist. This locks the 2 beads in between each set of threads.
Step 3 You pass the weft with two beads back thru the warp strands and twist each pair of warps over the weft. AND repeat!!! It’s that simple.
To finish off the garter I simply take the weft thread and pass it back and forth thru the last 2-3 rows of baeds and then cut the weft flush to the warps. i'll post some detailed pix later when i get my hands on a better camera
Friday, August 13, 2010
Just thought this guy looked like he needed a little more eyeballing.....hat..crazy....items to be shipped..always need relooked at.....is that a rifle? has rifle guard and the tip looks like it needs a recheck. This is an image for Jim Kochan..I'll email him and see what he thinks.....the wrist looks crazy
yes Virginia they wore linen Leggings too....they just didn't look like that.
Rush Blady (laying down) wearing wrappers at the Cowpens event
Latrobe image of leggings
1770's image of reaper wearing leggings
Hemp leggings with Buffalo wool tape at ankle and knee
Side view of hemp leggings...note seam up the back
Well I guess I need to post something useful today to keep this blog relevant. With all the weirdness being spouted out the idea of the “long knife” in other forums I’ll try and tackle a little bit about the oft debated cloth leggings (from the info I have been able to find) This info is also not taking into consideration the use of gaiters/half gaiters/trousers by the working class to protect their legs while working. ….Ok some Ti Chi stretches and here I go.
Ok so I have been able to find that non wool leggings aren’t that uncommon (shock and disbelief) the problem is that they are not simply Indian style leggings made out of hemp/linen cloth. If you dig thru Period narratives and runaway ads you find them being mentioned on a regular basis. The problem is that they aren’t always referred to as leggings. In the period the term “wrappers” seems to be used to describe the garment used to protect a person’s leg while working. These can be made from linen or wool cloth. Here are some examples from Virginia Runaways:
AUGUSTA, Nov. 16, 1768. RUN away from the subscriber in Augusta, on the 1st of this instant, a convict servant man named THOMAS KERR, who had on when he went away a new felt hat, a light blue cloth coat, a purple coloured vest, a coarse shirt, old leather breeches, woollen stockings, a coarse pair of linen wrappers, new shoes, and a pair of large brass buckles; he took with him a woman's shift, one sheet, one coarse apron, and three deerskins in the hair; he is supposed to have taken with him a short rifle gun, and some ammunition. He is of a middle stature, and a fair or sandy complexion. Whoever secures the said servant so that the owner may get him, shall have THREE POUNDS reward. JOHN BOTKIN.
Ok so I have been able to find that non wool leggings aren’t that uncommon (shock and disbelief) the problem is that they are not simply Indian style leggings made out of hemp/linen cloth. If you dig thru Period narratives and runaway ads you find them being mentioned on a regular basis. The problem is that they aren’t always referred to as leggings. In the period the term “wrappers” seems to be used to describe the garment used to protect a person’s leg while working. These can be made from linen or wool cloth. Here are some examples from Virginia Runaways:
AUGUSTA, Nov. 16, 1768. RUN away from the subscriber in Augusta, on the 1st of this instant, a convict servant man named THOMAS KERR, who had on when he went away a new felt hat, a light blue cloth coat, a purple coloured vest, a coarse shirt, old leather breeches, woollen stockings, a coarse pair of linen wrappers, new shoes, and a pair of large brass buckles; he took with him a woman's shift, one sheet, one coarse apron, and three deerskins in the hair; he is supposed to have taken with him a short rifle gun, and some ammunition. He is of a middle stature, and a fair or sandy complexion. Whoever secures the said servant so that the owner may get him, shall have THREE POUNDS reward. JOHN BOTKIN.
RUN away, without any known provocation, the 19th of November, 1770, from the subscriber, near Orange court house, Virginia, four likely Negro men slaves, to wit, SAMBO, alias SAM, from Africa about 19 years ago, about 32 years old; the other three are Virginia born; EDOM is aged 22, and BEN and TOM about 17 each. They have got new cotton suits, capes to their jackets, and cotton wrappers to their legs, shoes of stiff leather, hind quarters entirely without seam, and the bottoms very broad and nailed. SAM is of a middle stature, large over, and stooping in the shoulders, has had for some years past an excrescence or swelling under his left ear, his back marked by whipping when young, though much indulged lately; he carried with him an old grey fine cloth coat, a brown linen ditto, a blue stuff jacket, white shirt, a kind of laced hat, with a black band, &c. a box to carry part of his cloaths, talks badly, though a sensible artful fellow, and is a tolerable blacksmith. EDOM is tall, straight, more yellow than the others, took with him green bound cloth wrappers, gray sale stockings, one of them patched, has dyed his cotton jacket brown, and put pockets in and cuffs to it. BEN is rather tall of his age, his wool low down his forehead, eye-brows large and prominent, appears to be swelled about his eyes, though natural, and has a jacket of the same cloth of Sam's coat. TOM is not so tall as Ben, middle sized of his age remarkable large feet, long bony face, large teeth, and apt to shew them, lisps a little, and has an old felt hat, part of the brim burnt. Any person or persons that will secure, and contrive intelligence thereof or convey to the subscriber's house, all or any of the above mentioned slaves, shall, according to the service, &c. have an immediate AMPLE REWARD. JAMES WALKER
Period artwork and some journals point towards the use of the “legging”, “wrapper” or “country boot”. An interesting account is in Nicholas Creswell’s Journal. While he is in the Laurel Highlands he is advised to wear “leggings” tied at the knee and ankle to protect him from snakebites. A few days later when he is being outfitted under the mentorship of the Trader Anderson he has a pair of “Indian Leggings” made up. This to me points out a difference between the “legging” the locals are wearing to the “Indian legging”.
The garment also pops up in some period artwork. An interesting sketch by Benjamin Latrobe done in the 1790’s shows clearly how to wrap the leggings and tie them. It also mentions how they are used to keep insects away. An image from England in the 1770’s shows the garment in use by a reaper.
For my interpretation I simply used 2 pieces of stout hemp/linen cloth 36 inches wide by 25 inches long. I did a rolled hem on the edges of the cloth to keep it from fraying (no self fringe here). To wear the legging I simply placed an end on the back of my calf and wrapped the cloth around my leg. I secured the legging at the knee and ankle with a piece of tape or leather cord. I have worn this set up on a few scouts and it works out pretty well for keeping your leg covered. Personally I didn’t see a difference in hot much heat this set up holds in versus the Indian style wool legging. SO if your going to stick to the mindset of hemp leggings for “long hunters” this is an option based in documentation and well…works
The garment also pops up in some period artwork. An interesting sketch by Benjamin Latrobe done in the 1790’s shows clearly how to wrap the leggings and tie them. It also mentions how they are used to keep insects away. An image from England in the 1770’s shows the garment in use by a reaper.
For my interpretation I simply used 2 pieces of stout hemp/linen cloth 36 inches wide by 25 inches long. I did a rolled hem on the edges of the cloth to keep it from fraying (no self fringe here). To wear the legging I simply placed an end on the back of my calf and wrapped the cloth around my leg. I secured the legging at the knee and ankle with a piece of tape or leather cord. I have worn this set up on a few scouts and it works out pretty well for keeping your leg covered. Personally I didn’t see a difference in hot much heat this set up holds in versus the Indian style wool legging. SO if your going to stick to the mindset of hemp leggings for “long hunters” this is an option based in documentation and well…works
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
The Native Dunce cap....not quilled so no one will wear it
Sorry the pic quality sux but you can see a better version on the link I posted
These caps seem to be a variation on the usual Peaked caps we see in Images and on dolls. Another account from around the same time makes a similar mention:
Digging thru some stuff this morning looking for my quotes on the use of buffalo tugs I recrossed the path of an image and a quote I hadn't quite put together. Anyhow this is taken From the Shane interviews and can be found on Page 154 of Dale Payne's book "Frontier Memories 3". If your interested in first person accounts at all Mr. Payne's books are a God send! Take the Cash you were going to spend on a quilled Neck knife and Buy all is books! anyhow....
James Wade, Kentucky, June 1790
“ A very Nice Indian Cap and a gun Stick were found where they camped. The cap was made of two pieces of white colored cloth with two red tassels hanging down on each side of the head, at the corners that stuck up”
“ A very Nice Indian Cap and a gun Stick were found where they camped. The cap was made of two pieces of white colored cloth with two red tassels hanging down on each side of the head, at the corners that stuck up”
These caps seem to be a variation on the usual Peaked caps we see in Images and on dolls. Another account from around the same time makes a similar mention:
Israel Donalson April 1791"took down opened his budget, and took out a sort of blanket cap, and put it on my head"
Tons of native headware out there if ya look besides the mass of turkey feathers we so often stuck on peoples heads...anyhow
Following link is to a peaked cap with ears in A museum in New Brunswik.....site has alot of kewl stuff
Link to all hamiltons Drawings
Monday, August 2, 2010
All the Fashionable Hunters are wearing Stroud Cloth This season…
Our Spokesmodel Cynthia after a nap on some of the cloth
Red Stroud and Blue Stroud made using this method
All the stuff you need to make a pair of Stroud Leggings...Smaller blue pot used for clouts/single leggings
Despite the common misconception there wasn’t a native section of a traders store and a “hunters section”. The gear we see The hunters at places like Fort Pitt Buying is the same gear you see being sold to the native customers (and everyone else for that matter). This is the same for the Breechclouts, leggings and matchcoats. To date I have not seen a reference to a “linen” breechcloth or leather leggings being sold to hunters. Commonly the cloth being used for these items are Halfthicks, broadcloth or Stroud. But the focus of this little blurb will be on the common stroud cloth.
This cloth was a common trade item during the majority of the 18th century from Nova Scotia to Louisiana. Named after the region of England it was produced this cloth made in Blue, Red green and black. During the process of making the cloth Webbing was sewn to the edges and when it was dyed these areas remained white. These “lists” or “worms” as they are referred to in the period become a trademark of sorts for this cloth.
At Fort Pitt in the 1760’s this cloth is used by Hunters, Bateau men, native and shopkeepers For everything from the usual Matchcoats, leggings and breechclouts to table cloths in the storehouses and Blanket coats. Here are some examples from the BW&M papers:
March 27, 1765
Alexander Mckee
1 pr Stroud Leggings ..7..6
July 26, 1765
Shawanese To Sundry Acco.
2 Stroud Breech clouts …14..
1 pr Stroud Leggings ,,7,,6
May 1767
William Wright Batteauman
1 pr stroud leggings 8/6
Sept 1 1767
John Vaughn
2 pr stroud leggings 12/6….1’’5’’0
Aug 4 1768
Jacob Drinnen
1 pr red stroud leggings 8”
My goal here Is to Give the basics on making “stroud” look cloth so that. The following method is one that I and Travis Crowder have come up with that works for us thru trial and error. My caveat here is that I’m using Modern Dyes and the cloth in the period went thru a number of procedures not just being clamped and dyed to be called “Stroud” cloth.
If you really want to get into making cloth or learning a lot more about the cloth and a different process of making it yourself check out The Trade cloth Handbook.
Four winds Trading Post
P.O. Box 580
St. Ignatious, Montana 59865
email: ccorey@bigsky.net
If you want to make anything more then a pair of leggings GET THIS BOOK!!!! This is the Method the folks making the $$$expensive$$$ stuff are using.
SO for a basic pair of leggings you’re going to need
1) A yard of 60 inch wide white coat weight wool (washed and ironed).
2) 2 strips of linen/hemp/cotton canvas 2 inches wide by 40 inches long
3) A roll of the dreaded artificial sinew and Scissors
4) Pins and a thick needle
5) 2-3 bottles of liquid Rit dye in either Dark blue or Scarlet
6) A Large aluminum Pot
7) A cup of salt
8) A container to put wet dyed cloth in to transport it
9) Stove or hot plate
Step 1 Ok so the first off along the selvedge edge of the wool fold and pin your piece of canvas so that half is on each side. You should allow a few inches of the canvas to hang off each side about an inch or two.
This cloth was a common trade item during the majority of the 18th century from Nova Scotia to Louisiana. Named after the region of England it was produced this cloth made in Blue, Red green and black. During the process of making the cloth Webbing was sewn to the edges and when it was dyed these areas remained white. These “lists” or “worms” as they are referred to in the period become a trademark of sorts for this cloth.
At Fort Pitt in the 1760’s this cloth is used by Hunters, Bateau men, native and shopkeepers For everything from the usual Matchcoats, leggings and breechclouts to table cloths in the storehouses and Blanket coats. Here are some examples from the BW&M papers:
March 27, 1765
Alexander Mckee
1 pr Stroud Leggings ..7..6
July 26, 1765
Shawanese To Sundry Acco.
2 Stroud Breech clouts …14..
1 pr Stroud Leggings ,,7,,6
May 1767
William Wright Batteauman
1 pr stroud leggings 8/6
Sept 1 1767
John Vaughn
2 pr stroud leggings 12/6….1’’5’’0
Aug 4 1768
Jacob Drinnen
1 pr red stroud leggings 8”
My goal here Is to Give the basics on making “stroud” look cloth so that. The following method is one that I and Travis Crowder have come up with that works for us thru trial and error. My caveat here is that I’m using Modern Dyes and the cloth in the period went thru a number of procedures not just being clamped and dyed to be called “Stroud” cloth.
If you really want to get into making cloth or learning a lot more about the cloth and a different process of making it yourself check out The Trade cloth Handbook.
Four winds Trading Post
P.O. Box 580
St. Ignatious, Montana 59865
email: ccorey@bigsky.net
If you want to make anything more then a pair of leggings GET THIS BOOK!!!! This is the Method the folks making the $$$expensive$$$ stuff are using.
SO for a basic pair of leggings you’re going to need
1) A yard of 60 inch wide white coat weight wool (washed and ironed).
2) 2 strips of linen/hemp/cotton canvas 2 inches wide by 40 inches long
3) A roll of the dreaded artificial sinew and Scissors
4) Pins and a thick needle
5) 2-3 bottles of liquid Rit dye in either Dark blue or Scarlet
6) A Large aluminum Pot
7) A cup of salt
8) A container to put wet dyed cloth in to transport it
9) Stove or hot plate
Step 1 Ok so the first off along the selvedge edge of the wool fold and pin your piece of canvas so that half is on each side. You should allow a few inches of the canvas to hang off each side about an inch or two.
Step 2 Starting at the edge begin to whip stitch around the canvas using your artificial sinew (leave about 6 inches of sinew hang off the end you start). This should cause the selvedge edge to roll towards you. After about half an inch go back and wrap your extra sinew on the edge of the canvas. This will help keep the dye out. Continue to whip stitch the canvas until you have reached the edge. Make sure you are using tiny stitches and cranking each stitch in place. The tighter the stitches the better!
Step 3 Repeat on the other selvedge edge. When done if you wish you can cut the piece in half. (Or leave as one piece and you have 2 breechclouts worth of Stroud and some scraps for garters etc) Cut it so that the sewn section would act as the top of the legging.
Step 4 Now soak your pieces of cloth in the sink while you prepare the dye pots. Put the pot on the heat source fill with water and dump in all the dye bottles (3 bottles is kind of over kill but it works) and add your cup of salt. Let the temp build up until you have steam rising off he top. Now it’s time to add your wool.
Step 5 Add in a piece of wool to the Dye. You’re going to want to stir this off and on for about half an hour. When the time is up move the cloth to the “wet cloth” container ring out by hand and move it to a place to hang up (preferably somewhere that wont stain the kitchen floor been there done that)
Step 6 Repeat with other legging
Step 7 I hang out the sections to air dry and finishing dripping. From there I throw the pieces into the washing machine and wash them in cold water twice. Then I hang them back out to air dry. Once dry I go along and cut off the threads holding the canvas strips on and once finished you have a piece of Stroud cloth ready for leggings.
Crappy Bibliography
Web resource consulted:
http://www.womenofthefurtrade.com/wst_page8.html
Article consulted
Textile History, 36 (2), 196–234, November 2005
© Pasold Research Fund Ltd 2005 DOI: 10.1179/004049605x61564
From Stroud to Strouds: The Hidden History
of a British Fur Trade Textile1
Cory Willmott
Bayton Wharton and Morgan Day Book (unpublished)
Bayton Wharton and Morgan Microfilm
Super genius consulted: Travis Crowder
Crappy Bibliography
Web resource consulted:
http://www.womenofthefurtrade.com/wst_page8.html
Article consulted
Textile History, 36 (2), 196–234, November 2005
© Pasold Research Fund Ltd 2005 DOI: 10.1179/004049605x61564
From Stroud to Strouds: The Hidden History
of a British Fur Trade Textile1
Cory Willmott
Bayton Wharton and Morgan Day Book (unpublished)
Bayton Wharton and Morgan Microfilm
Super genius consulted: Travis Crowder
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Post #1 another Bad idea...
Knives (English & French........cheap and made by the thousands)
Scissors (looks nothing like the chinese ones)
Page From the BW&M papers.....We know what they bought...and it wasn't always brown (sorry had to say it)
SO why did I do this? Well Honestly I need a reason to finally organize all my info on the hunters/traders that operated out of Fort Pitt In the 1760’s. I have in the past posted items I thought would be useful to folks on reenactor email lists/message boards but this usually breaks out into the usual flame wars full of “I think they would have “ or “that doesn’t make sense to me”. So here I can control the content and put out information that won’t get lost in 12 pages of bullshit. If nothing else I’ll finally have a document that shows why I do what I do. But…I won’t put it all on here I’ve already written books for other ppl LOL.
So what do I mean when I talk about market hunters (aka Long hunters). Well my idea of these men is anyone (French, English or Native) that was involved in the Deerskin Trade of the 1760’s. It’s not simply limited to the men who ended up going thru the Cumberland gap in the 1770’s as some Authors would have you believe. The Deerskin trade encompassed a huge amount of land/people during this period. My main focus is on the Men who operated out of Fort Pitt and many of these men were employed by the firm of Bayton, Wharton and Morgan.
While much has been written on this subject over the past two decades by Mark Baker in Muzzleloader Magazine and his book “Sons of a Trackless Forest” is THE source for info on these men the miles of microfilm of info on these men still has plenty of information to get out there. So I dont feel I'm stepping on anyones toes by putting this stuff out there and hopefully I’ll be able to knock out at least a post a week on some piece of gear (hats, knives, blankets, garters etc). And Hopefully this helps new folks get started and avoid some of the newbie blunders.